Sunday, November 29, 2015

Rwanda's Next Top Model, The Military Ball, Thanksgiving Rwandan Style...

The Contenders
Well, let me start off by saying this was NOT what I thought it would be. Poor Paul, he was a trooper! To be generous in describing how things are organized here, let's just say they are always fashionably late. Normally that's right up my alley, but the advertised 6pm start time to the Top Model contest was way late with a 9pm start!!
 
 

 Paul was ready to go before it began but luckily the show was sponsored by Mutzig, a Rwandan beer company, and the beer was free so we enjoyed sitting out in the cool air sipping Mutzig and watching the crowd. Long story short, it was a sort of fashion show, mixed in with 10 girls vying to be Top Model.


 

 


They modeled a few outfits, but were not prepared for the QA part of the show, and things took a turn for the worse when the judges asked each girl how she could make a difference as a top model. 

 Most barely got their name and hometown out and had no clue what the judges were alluding to. They spoke either English, French or Kinyarwanda, with French and Kinyarwanda the main languages. I'll just show you some photos and let you know that the model Paul and I were rooting for won the title!



The 5 finalists
The Winner!!
                                                                      



The Marine Birthday Ball...figuring this would be the last time we were invited to a "Military Ball" Paul and I said, what the heck, let's go! What to wear?  I went with Zoe and Annalisa, (a Fulbright friend), along with Agnes, Zoe's Rwandan friend, to Kimironko market to have a dress made. Craziness for sure.
Designing on the go
Creating a dressing room
Searching out the fabric stalls and selecting fabric was lots of fun. Next step was "designing" a dress with Agnes' favorite tailor. Poor girl endured hours of selecting, fitting, explaining and re-fitting but it was a great experience for us.There are tons of stalls at the market with racks and racks of fabric at least 10 feet high. 
 
Along the edges of the fabric stalls are ladies and men with old singer sewing machines, sewing whatever is requested when you buy the fabric.
It took about 10 days and $15 each and we had our dresses for the ball. Unfortunately mine did not fit well and I wore my own dress but the girls dresses looked great.
Our local seamstress hard at work

 The ball was cool with military speeches and presentations. The Ambassador to Rwanda gave a very moving speech as she described the involvement of the marines in keeping the embassy staff safe in several countries including one that required evacuation after a government coup and loss of several friends lives. Then the usual drinking, food, dancing. The 8 marines stationed here in Rwanda were friendly and loved to dance. It's clear they are a close knit group and was nice to see.

Leeanne, Jessica, Rebecca, Zoe, Jessica, Annalisa- all Fulbrights except our Embassy Rep Rebecca!



Jessica, Zoe & Leeanne

Sharing a laugh with her dad

A handsome lad and his lady! We had fun!

Part of the ceremony

The Marines really enjoyed themselves

Zoe designed and picked out fabric for this dress



The "fallen comrade table"
 


After a few drinks and ready to dance
We didn't realize that all the Marines celebrate the Birthday of the Marines with parties all around the world. This was the 240th Birthday of the Marines and they were so excited. We all felt proud of them- the tradition is the oldest Marine present gives the youngest the first piece of cake. The cake was so big it could have fed a small country!

Cake was gigantic & delicious..sort of

Table photo under the stars and stripes- meet Robert on left

 Thanksgiving!! Rwandan Style:

What can I say? 10 people with just enough borrowed forks, knives and plates to go around. Glad to say that solo plastic cups have made it to Africa as well as "Moscow Mules" a very strong drink! With the exception of Robert who went to Zanzibar and Jessica who stayed in Gisenyi the same group assembled at Chez Berman for as close to a traditional thanksgiving dinner as possible. Brianna, Lisa, Jill and Richard rounded out the guests and we had a really nice dinner.


Our Serena Hotel cooked Turkey, house-made gravy, and candied sweet potatoes as only Paul can make along with Jill's amazing homemade challah bread topped the list!
Getting Ready to Carve!

We had quite a few sides including tofu and apples, garlic green beans, arugula/mango/and blue cheese salad, curried lentils and rice. We ate til we were stuffed than finished off with chocolate cake and banana and lemon tartes from the local bakeries.
Jill & Richard- she made a great challah


 This was certainly a Thanksgiving to remember and we all have a lot to be thankful for. Can't imagine what next year will bring!
My Favorite Daughter!
Happy Thanksgiving!


We pulled in an extra table and borrowed plates/forks so everyone could eat at the same time!

The Berman's in Rwanda






Sunday, November 8, 2015

OUR FIRST SAFARI, LIONS AND ELEPHANTS AND ZEBRAS!!





The  beginning of our safari adventure really started the night before, with dinner at Sundowner, a popular restaurant in Kimihurura.  Our friend Richard had a hankering for pizza and already scoped the place out so we decided to give it a try. Once we settled in we realized this place was not about pizza, it was one of the local  places known for Nyama Choma…roasted goat!
Grilling the goat


I was conflicted- the prospect of trying grilled goat meat was on my list of absolute musts. On the other hand I was getting ready to spend the next 2 days in a Range Rover and I was seriously concerned about the response my gut would have to a new and potentially distressing food item. I could not imagine what people did with stomach upsets on safari and I didn’t want to find out.

Chopping the ribs-enough meat for 3

 I stuck with pizza but Paul went for the goat. He is SUCH A SPORT!!

 The meat was a little gamey and tough but had a good flavor. I'm definitely going to eat this again, but will stick with the roasted goat brochettes- much easier to eat than goat ribs.


Suffering no ill effects after our goat meal, the next morning we took off at 6am for Akagera National Park, near the Tanzanian border. 
Paul and our guide Kirenga
Adult Oribi

















As soon as we entered the park we saw Baboons, Monkeys, Impala and Bushbuck wandering through the hills. Some of them stared at us and seemed like they were posing and most just ignored us, but the monkeys and baboons chattered at the car as we drove by, it was great!

Our guide Kirenga has been coming here for years and knew the place quite well. We drove from late morning through early evening only stopping for a quick lunch of hummus/veggie sandwiches and a bathroom break. The Rover was comfortable with large windows so we could see the beautiful countryside all around us. The animals were often in packs, not so close to the road, but relatively easy to spot with binoculars or careful watching. Paul was really happy with all the birds we were seeing and Kirenga is a professional bird guider so we really benefited  from his experience.

The roads were pretty bumpy hard packed dirt trails with major ruts, but all in all I did ok with my car sickness bands on at all times.
The scenery was so peaceful



After lunch we broke up the car trekking with a boat ride around the peninsula to some smaller islands in the middle of Lake Ihema. We saw crocodiles, hippos and water birds in the mangroves and trees. The Nile Crocodiles were huge, sunning on the banks and slinking into the water. They are really well camouflaged and we would have seen very little without the help of the boatmen.
A huge Nile Crocodile
We saw lots of animals and water birds and eagles most of which I was unfamiliar with. We headed back to the Rover.

 While I thought it was cool to see huge water buffalo and hippos up close I kept asking Kirenga if he thought we would see a lion on our trip. (there are 3 in the park) He was non-committal basically saying "it ain't over til it’s over" When we leave we’ll know what we saw. I kept thinking I was seeing a lion, and having him stop the Rover, but it always turned out to be a rock or some other animal. We had a few laughs for sure.
A family of Hippos in the lake

This guy was unbelievable-iridescent blue










African Fish Eagles






Somewhere mid-day Kirenga was pleased to
point out elephant tracks, asking if we couldn’t see the footprints and trunk brushings in the road? Yeah right, I was happy to recognize the poop much less the footprints. We “tracked” elephants all day by their footprints/poop and the trail kept growing hot then cold. FINALLY at the end of the day, heading for the tents, practically right in front of us, was a gigantic elephant with big tusks, munching away on leaves in the brush. I was pretty excited and would have gotten right out to say hello and get up close and personal, but it’s not allowed. Just as well.  I wouldn’t want to end up on the end of a tusk. 
Our Friend the elephant



Beautiful red breasted bird






We spent the night in Ruzizi Tented lodge overlooking Lake Ihema. I don’t know WHAT I was thinking. I insisted on paying an extra $200 for the experience of staying in the tents. They were big, and set up over a concrete flooring. Somehow there were

real bathrooms, only the roof and walls were actually tents.


Paul relaxing in our fancy tent
By then I was a little done being nature girl and I was not happy with the millions of tiny bugs all over the place. 



no complaints here



We tried to eat our dinner on the deck near the big fire pit but I felt like every bite contained insects of some sort. I also was aware that there is Malaria in Akagera and a bit anxious about the mosquitoes. We gave up and went into the covered dining room and finished dinner. Next time - the lodge.

Our patio overlooking the Lake






The tents were set in the trees and off the ground














 The monkeys were all around our tent, jumping through the trees making a racket, which was fun, and the hippos came up on shore later in the evening.
 We could hear them chomping on the grass outside. The cabins were set up on a walkway so we didn't have to worry too much about stray animals coming up to the tent. By then I was done with nature and happy to stay under the covers with my kindle. I was also a little chicken to go out since I assumed the noise we heard was a hippo but I wasn't taking any chances!
An escort of monkeys in the morning-so cute


More hippos just being lazy outside our patio



Next morning we had breakfast on the deck at 6 am and resumed our adventures.   
Breakfast looking out over the lake!
We headed deeper into the park and saw many zebra, giraffe, impala, wart hogs, beautiful birds, male vervet monkeys with electric blue genitalia (no kidding around) and finally, lounging around amid the giraffes was a female lion!


Water Buffalo





 I was thrilled, but in retrospect the giraffes, elephants, and zebras were more fun to watch. All in all we saw Antelope, Oribi, Topi, the elusive cape eland, bushbuck, elephant, lion, zebra, giraffe, monkeys, wart hogs, baboons, crocodiles and many birds. My two favorite birds were the beautiful blue Bee Eater and yellow and black weavers.(Couldn't get photos though.)

We got photos of everything we could and of course forgot many animal and bird names. We drove through the entire park and exited with a view of the Tanzanian hills. Hopefully you'll enjoy the pictures!
Beautiful

Male in charge of a whole herd

great camouflage
A group of giraffes seen from our Rover


Crowned lapwing
Vervet Monkey
Hippos are vegetarians and graze during the night...usually.

Kirenga searched and we were lucky to find some hippos grazing during the morning



2 young male Impala practicing
Black with tiny white dots and turquoise cheeks gorgeous wild chicken-- and tasty too, according to Kirenga!

These giraffes were so incredible, just calmly eating leaves

According to Kirenga the lion was playing with the giraffes can you see her between two giraffes?
A sinister croc

 Not sure I'll be ready for another Safari just yet, but this one already was unforgettable!

The zebra brothers pose for the camera