Up and ready to go by 7:30am last Saturday morning, Paul gently pushed back the mosquito netting to wake me up. The adventure was beginning already. Having previously consulted our Bradt guidebook, he enthusiastically pointed out the merits of a bus trip to Gicumbi (Gee-choom-bee), just an hour bus ride away! Gicumbi is the highest town in Rwanda at 2200m (6500ft) and boasts some of the best birding outside Kigali, at a nearby lake. After a quick shower I decided to break in my new bug repellent khakis and we were off. Heading once again to the crazy bus station at Nyabugogo to purchase our tickets, we awaited our bus amidst the throngs of travelers, hawkers, beggars and merchants. I smiled at a young woman selling muffins and nodded to purchase one for the ride. For 400 rwf (~60cents) I accidentally bought the entire bag! (These muffins will come back later in the story.)
The scenery was beautiful as we drove through small towns outside Kigali. We passed many rice paddies, much to our surprise, (they are also home to "farm raised" tilapia) as well as tea plantations and a tea processing factory.Tea is a big export crop here along with coffee and is quite good.
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| Tea Plantations are very lush and beautiful and located down in the valley or up on the mountaintop. (Known as Valley tea or Mountain tea!) |
Once in Gicombi we met up with Elijah, our guide, who ushered us into a hired car for another 30min ride on rough dirt roads to lake Nyagafunzo. We were surprised to meet him in town instead of at the hotel as described in our guidebook. Along the way he told us the latest on the hotel and birding tours. The hotel had closed down 6 months earlier due to what he described as a tale of poison, corruption and murder! His story was so heartfelt that we really felt terrible for him and his friends. I can tell you, I didn't get bored or car sick on THAT ride! The hotel was shut down and coincidentally a competing hotel was able to take over their hotel/tour business and property. Can't elaborate more than that!
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| The kids lounged on the bank eating muffins as we took off |
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| I loved our blue boat! |
We arrived at the lake to hear about a small problem. No boat! No problem! Hakuna Matata! Just a 20 min hike around the lake and we were at the boat. (We passed some tsetse flies and a green mamba along the way-- luckily we didn't have to worry about sleeping sickness and the mamba was already eating a frog so we were safe for the moment.) We were followed by a number of small children who pointed out birds and picked water lilies for me. The guide frowned on me giving them any coins, so the muffins came in handy-- just enough for one each!
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| Loved the water lillies |
As we rowed out thru the swampy waterways we passed tons of water lilies and
of course birds and wicker fish traps. The traps are cone shaped and the fish
swim in the wider mouth but can't get out of the narrow end. Its one of the older fishing methods used here.
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| It took about 5min from blue sky to black sky |
Just as we passed through the narrow channels and into the lake, the sky darkened and we became concerned about a storm brewing some miles away from us. The guide and boatman seemed unconcerned...at first. But then the thunder picked up, lightening erupted and the wind and the rain hit us on the water. We donned our "emergency rain ponchos" and rowed in to the shore to seek shelter.
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| View from the passageway |
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| In the doorway of his home! |
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Once on the shore we climbed up a steep hill, following the boatman to shelter at the top. The rain and wind were really picking up...the full tour experience! It turns out that there were a few mud huts and many children there. We all crouched in a narrow passage way between 2 mud brick rooms covered with a corrugated metal roof to stay out of the rain. The children came to look and laugh at the muzungu's in their midst.
I had a peek into
one of the rooms, just bare mud walls and floor with a window carved out
and covered with a wooden shutter.
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| a little camera shy! |
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| Young girl with baby tied in traditional way |
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| a serious fellow |
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| Looking thru binoculars! |
We spoke our little Kinyarwanda with them but luckily our boatman chatted easily with everyone and made the visit a fun and friendly experience for everyone!
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| I liked these guys! |
The kids were really sweet and once
the rain let up we showed them their pictures with our camera and iPhone
and Paul showed them how to look through the binoculars.
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| I'm always amazed that even though I may be dripping with sweat, many people are draped in layers of fabric! | | | | | | | |
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| A few of the locals came down to give us a push off! |
They were very
sweet and when we left they stood on the ridge waving and shouting
goodby (mwiriwe) The birds were ok, but the kids were great!
We made our way back to boats in our plastic ponchos and picked up where we began, looking for the birds that lived in this wetlands. Unfortunately we arrived "late in the day" but there were a few birds remaining to make us feel the trip was "all inclusive"! Photos below!
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| Two red birds in a blue boat! |
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| White Egret |
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| Our Guide, Elijah |
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| Grey Crane |
Did I mention our guide was near sighted and had to use Paul's
binoculars to spot the birds? Paul did quite well on his own, sans
binoculars, but we didn't have a bird book and so didn't know a few of the
names.
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| Unknown to us! |
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| Marsh bird, unknown |
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| mud brick home |
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| This boat was full of grass cut from the swamp. The rainy season has not arrived and currently there is not enough grass for the livestock. Cutting is illegal but one of the ways to keep the cows alive. |
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| Sacred Ibis |
There weren't as many birds out after the storm but we decided the kids were such a treat we didn't mind the lack of exciting birds.
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| White Pelican! |
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| These boats are used to ferry locals back and forth across the lake |
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| Our boatman gives me a turn at paddling! |
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| The local people either work in the tea plantations or do subsistence farming- steppe farming raising beans, potatoes, peas, broccoli and other veggies. This was a closeup view as we looked up from one side of the lake. |
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We made our way back to the landing point and drove back to the town. Along the way, many people, especially the kids, yelled and waved at the car. I yelled and waved back and it was a really nice feeling. I think I know a little bit how Miss America feels, smiling and waving as she drives by! :)
The kids were really sweet and once
the rain let up we showed them their pictures with our camera and iPhone
and Paul showed them how to look through the binoculars. 
